Friday, November 5, 2010

Flat Fell Seam (Denim Seam) Tutorial

I decided I wanted needed to make myself a new denim skirt but I was a little nervous it was going to look home made. So I incorporated a couple of fancy Flat Fell Seams to help give it a professional look.
Have you ever looked at the seam on your jeans and wondered, "How'd they do that? Where's the raw edge?"
Well, wonder no longer.
While I was working on my skirt I took a couple of photos so I could share this fun sewing technique with you.
Believe it or not it's really not as hard as you might think and it gives great finished detail to almost any project.
Let's get started.

Like I said before a Flat Fell Seam is a great way to enclose your seam. Not only does it look sharp and professional but it gives extra strength to the seam.

However, there are a couple of things you need to remember in order to get the look you are going for.
  1. If you are sewing on denim or any thick fabric a heavy duty (denim) needle is essential.
  2. Don't forget to make your stitch length longer. I sewed this seam with the stitch length at 4.2 (5 is  the longest length on my machine.)
Step #1
Take your two fabric pieces and pin them Wrong sides together (Right side facing out).

Step #2
Increase your stitch length and sew your first seam. Your seam allowance can be anywhere between 1/2 and 5/8 of an inch but not smaller than 1/2 inch.

Step #3

Press the seam allowance to one side.
You can decide which way will be best for your project. If you notice on jeans the seam allowance normally is pressed to the back.
The seam allowance that is facing up will remain the top of the finished seam.

Step #4
With your finger open up the seam allowance and trim the bottom piece (the seam allowance in between your main fabric piece and the top seam allowance after you pressed the seam allowance to one side.)
 to a scant 1/4 inch.
Step #5

Feel free to pin at this point. I did. Just to make sure everything stayed in place.
Pinning takes some time but it IS YOUR FRIEND!

Step #6
Move your needle position to the far right, make sure your stitch length is the same as when you sewed your first seam.
Sew close to the folded edge of your seam.
Take your time as you sew so your stitching is nice and even.

That's it!
Not too bad is it!
Take a look at what your seam should look like on the inside and on the outside.
Nice and finished and no raw edges anywhere to be seen!

Check out my finished skirt!
I wish I was confident enough in my body image to show you how I look in the skirt......but I'm not, so you get the skirt on a plastic hanger. (Note to self: purchase some presentable skirt hangers so I don't have to take pictures of my skirts on the free plastic hangers from Khol's anymore.)
BTW I realize I should have pressed the skirt before I took a picture for the whole world to see but I didn't so what can I say?
You get my skirt wrinkles, plastic hanger and all.
Just keepin' it real!

Good luck! I'd love to hear from you if you decide to try this out!


A.Larson said...

Love it!

Lauren said...

That looks awesome!!

Linda said...

Thank you for showing how you did!

Mari Anne said...

Thanks for the instruction, and thanks for keeping it real, we all need that.

Jostlyn Weaver Gold said...

You just saved my life! And the lives of many many jeans lol I was about to give up on! thank you so much!

SewTypical said...

awesome tutorial - just what I needed. Thank you so much !

Clare Laurence said...

Excellent tutorial, thanks a mill. Just wondering why you move the needle to the far right before stitching the second row (as opposed to just moving the fabric over). It's probably blindingly obvious to everyone but me!

Shirley Smith said...

Great Tutorial, trying to get back into sewing, been awhile. I cut down the front of skirt so decided to do flat felled seam and your tutorial was a great help. All done now and it looks great, now one will be the wiser.

Erin Van Zante said...

Have a tutorial on how to use the flat felled seam AND somehow add a vent, or split, or whatever term you prefer? I’m trying my hand at making a denim mini for my daughter (I’m not experienced with sewing clothing), and can’t seem to be able to find any tutorials for them, but there MUST be a way, right?